If your sliding door lock won't engage, the handle is loose, or you can lift the door right out of the track even when 'locked,' you have a security issue that needs fixing today. We carry replacement locks for every major sliding door brand and can usually be at your home within 24 hours.
Sliding door locks are mechanical, and they wear out. The hook on a mortise lock bends; the spring in the latch loses tension; the cylinder seizes from salt or rust. We diagnose the failure mode and either rebuild the existing lock (cheaper, faster) or swap in a new one. Either way, you leave with a door you trust at night.
The 3 main types of sliding door locks we service
Sliding glass door locks broadly fall into three families. Knowing what you have helps when you call — but if you're not sure, send us a photo and we'll identify it.
- Mortise locks — the most common modern slider lock. A hook or J-shaped bolt swings out of the edge of the door panel into a strike in the frame. Found on most PGT, CGI, Andersen, and Pella sliders made in the last 25 years.
- Hook locks — heavy-duty version of the mortise. Two or three hooks engage simultaneously. Standard on hurricane-impact doors and required by Florida code on most new installs.
- Keyed cylinder locks — adds a key cylinder so you can lock and unlock the door from the outside. Common on doors that lead to a pool deck, side yard, or garage entrance.
What we replace
Our trucks carry universal-fit mortise locks (which fit 80% of doors with minor adjustment), OEM lock cartridges for Andersen, PGT, and CGI, hook-lock assemblies for impact doors, replacement keyed cylinders, and handle sets with matching escutcheons. If you want to keep the same key for multiple doors, we can re-key cylinders to match an existing key on most brands.
Security upgrade options
If you've ever felt nervous about how easy your slider would be to defeat, ask about a security upgrade when we come out. Options include: replacing a single-point latch with a multi-point hook lock, adding a foot-bolt secondary lock at the bottom of the door, installing a Charley bar in the track, or fitting a Defender-style security plate over the existing lock. None are expensive and all are dramatically harder to defeat than a standard slider latch.
💡 Quick Tip from Our Techs
The single best $20 you can spend on slider security is a quality wooden or aluminum Charley bar that drops into the track. It physically blocks the door from being slid open even if the lock is defeated.
